For an explorer, there is nothing more exciting than waking up to unlock a new adventure. Heading to unveil glory of a new peak, navigating the unseen dangers, and feasting your soul with the soothing sights of nature, this is only the essence of it. I believe, words often fall short and don’t capture the feeling completely, and the grandeur of nature’s majesty.
As the dawn rose in Haramosh valley, kissing the lush-green meadow, we found ourselves standing at the crossroads of adventure once again. The towering presence of Haramosh Peak had already casted its spell on us. And now, we were looking at another jewel in the crown of the Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains — Laila Peak. (If you haven’t read the previous journey, delve into this blog first: Pain, Peaks, & Panoramas – My Expedition To the Majestical Haramosh Mountain).
Heading To The Laila Peak:
After staying the night beside the crackling fire surrounding the ethereal Kutwal Lake, we woke up with a surprise breakfast from the hosts. The hospitable locals wanted us to have the best time, experiencing the culture and the food as well, adding a delightful touch to our expedition. The healthy breakfast included local bread, what they call Phiti, butter, and a buttermilk drink called Lassi. We were totally overwhelmed by the generosity of these natives, the land where hospitality flowed as freely as the mountain snow, where strangers were welcomed with open arms and open hearts.
Finally, with a full stomach and a full heart with love, we set our eyes on the new chapter of our expedition. Alex and I packed the gear and headed towards the Laila Peak, which is approximately 14.3 km away from Haramosh mountain.
About the Laila Peak:
Laila Peak, a dazzling mountain with a staggering height of 6,985 meters (22,917 ft) that dwells in the heart of Haramosh valley, near the Chogo Lungma Glacier. The history books and Wikipedia tell of its conquest in 1975 by the brave souls of the Hekiryou Alpine. But as they say, the soul of a mountain can only be truly felt, not merely read.
The words are not always enough. After the entrancing Haramosh mountain, I was drawn to the mystique of Laila Peak, a snow-crowned queen veiled in mist. So, Alex, and one of the locals, Karim, who volunteered to accompany us and navigate the route, headed towards the Laila Peak. It is approximately 5-7 km away from Kutwal lake.
An Unexpected Delay:
However, the twist in the tale, the accident that befell me on the trail to Haramosh valley, caused an unexpected delay. I had gnawing pain in my foot, but a burning desire that was beckoning me from a distance. How could I have refused this call of the wild that was urging towards its untamed beauty?
“Tina, your foot doesn’t look good. You must be in agony,” Alex was totally worried seeing me as I limped and sat on a rock. “We can turn back,” his voice was gentle, but the words were too harsh for me to accept. I struggled with a limping foot, but tried my best to keep the spirit alive. We couldn’t halt midway and head back to Dasso, without experiencing the allure of Laila Peak. So, I downplayed the pain, reassured my husband and kept on going…
The Haramosh mountain in our south, Kutwal lake in our East, and Laila Peak in our north, the place on the whole reflected my ambition. A rush of adrenaline flooded through my veins and painted the world in vivid hues. It felt like nature was itself cheering up on me, and admiring my unremitting resilience.
Trek:
“Rest could wait, let me make the most of this time here.” I grinned at Alex. Between the constant battle between the physical pain and my unwavering spirit, I refused to surrender. We headed towards our destination again after a short pause.
“Do you know, Pakistan has not just one, but three Laila peaks!” Karim enlightened us with a newfound perspective. “Oh, really? Where are the other two peaks?” Alex inquired with curiosity.
“One, and the highest Laila Peak is right in front of us, at some distance”, he chuckled and continued, “the second Laila Peak soaring to a height of 6096, graces the Hushe Valley, Karakoram. The third one is in Rupal Valley, Himalaya, with a height of 5971m.”
“Wow, that’s impressive” the revelation overwhelmed me. The realization that there were not one, but three Laila Peaks, each in a different valley, added an extra layer of intrigue to our journey.
Karim, our knowledgeable local guide, noticed our fascination and grinned. “The beauty of these peaks lies not just in their height but in the stories they carry. Each one has its own charm and history.”
Witnessing the Soul-Soothing Sight of Laila Peak:
As we chatted along the trek, each step grew us closer to our ultimate destination. It didn’t take long before my eyes were fixed upon the regal figure of Haramosh Valley’s queen, Laila Peak. Despite the calendar declaring it to be June, the snow-draped summit turned the month into a reminiscent of December. It transcended us into a winter wonderland.
From the Laila Peak base camp, a panoramic spectacle revealed the majestic views of Spantik and Malubiting peaks as well. They loomed gracefully above the rugged surface of Chogo Lungma glacier, creating a breathtaking view.
These towering giants with a pictorial background made it an enchanting scene. “Such a surreal view”, I was completely flabbergasted!
We camped at the base camp, amidst the awe-inspiring amphitheater of nature. Alex and I enjoyed the front-row seats to the most beautiful scenery – the symphony of peaks that adorned the horizon. Karim treated us to the most savory tea for us. Sipping the savory brew, we relished the serene embrace of the majestic landscape.
Return Journey:
The morning here turned out to be more magical, when the sun rays casted a golden glow over the snow-capped summits. The crisp alpine breeze signaled a shift in our journey—it was time to bid farewell to the enchanting Laila Peak and its majestic neighbors. After a simple bread and tea breakfast, we trace our steps back to Haramosh valley.
The locals were waiting for us with a final lunch together before we left. I thanked them for their gratitude and hospitality toward us, making this journey of life an unforgettable one. Despite the physical challenges and the enduring memories of exertion, the expedition proved to be remarkably incredible.
Alex and I extended our heartfelt farewells to everyone, while Karim insisted on accompanying us till Iskere. His selfless commitment and camaraderie extended beyond the mountains, leaving a lasting impression on us. Despite the differences, even though we could barely communicate smoothly because of the language barriers, he stood steadfastly beside us. Alex surprised him by gifting his watch, as a thank you for his exceptional support. This caught him off guard, and a mixture of gratitude and surprise lit up his face. He accepted the appreciation gift with a warm smile and headed back to Haramosh.
The descent to Silpee was easier than ascent, though still consuming 2 hours. From Silpee, we hired a jeep to transport us to Skardu, passing through Dasso and Sassi. After a long drive, we rested at night in the beautiful region of Skardu. Early in the morning, we were ready with our bags packed again, reminding us of the start, for a flight back. The Islamabad Airport, once a gateway to the journey, now stood as a departure point, marking the end of our expedition.
As we boarded the flight back to Spain, the memories of Haramosh Valley, Laila Peak, and the camaraderie formed on those majestic heights flowed. This journey had been more than just a physical exploration; it had become a cherished chapter in the story of my life.
