Spending the Easter holiday with all my friends always ends up in planning a trip somewhere. The destination almost all of the time ends up being Pakistan as all of us are captivated because of the country’s unreal beauty. This time during our annual discussions about planning a trip, we decided on a joint venture to climb the Shispare Sar and Batura Sar on a single trip.
When my friend Bella suggested the idea of climbing both these majestic mountains on a single journey, I thought she had gone insane. We had never climbed two mountains on a single journey. Though I knew climbing two mountains together didn’t mean we had to make the ascent back to back, the thought of having an extended stay in the cold made me nervous.
However, after casting a vote to see if most of us agreed with the plan, it was clear that we were heading to Pakistan, to climb Shispare Sar and Batura Sar.
Shispare Sar:
Standing at an impressive elevation of 7,611 meters, Shispare Sar is one of the most breathtakingly beautiful mountains located in the Karakoram range. The mountain is situated near the Hunza Valley, Gilgit-Baltistan. The entrancing mountain is a popular destination for mountaineers and adventurers looking to challenge themselves in a spectacular natural setting.
The name Shispare means “Queen of the Mountains” and is derived from Wakhi, a language commonly spoken by the locals. The peak certainly lives up to its dignified name. With its towering presence, Shispare Sar is truly a remarkable sight to behold. The mountain is also notable for its tremendous rise above the local terrain.
The first ascent to the mountain was made in 1974 by the “Polish-German Academic Expedition” under the leadership of Janusz Kurczab. The ascent took 35 days, and during preparations for a second group to try for the summit, one of the members was killed in an avalanche.
Making Our Way to Shispare Sar:
Shispare Sar being a haven for mountaineers and trekkers all around the world, offers some of the most breathtaking but also quite challenging trails. Our journey started when we landed in Islamabad.
Islamabad to Chilas:
Spending a day in Islamabad felt the same but better every time. I could have stayed there for days and not gotten tired by the capital’s beauty but because of our trip being planned so perfectly, we couldn’t extend our stay. The next morning we booked a Jeep for our journey to Chilas via Babusar Pass.
The drive was approximately 10 hours long but the magnificent landscape made our journey worthwhile. Finally after the long journey we were in Chilas.
Chilas to Passu:
During our drive to Passu we kept moving back and forth on the idea of starting our trek early or just drive to Luzdur. After considering both ideas for a while we decided to just save our energies for the journey ahead. After an approximately 7-hour drive and infinite conversations later, we were finally in Passu.
Passu to Luzdur:
In Passu, we decided to get a breather and soak in the breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. Spotting the small and cozy restaurant, we made our way to eat something. After eating the delicious local food, we took some pictures of the unreal looking scenery around us and resumed our journey again.
It took us about 6 hours to finally arrive in Luzdur. After our arrival, we left our car and started preparing for our trekking journey.
Trek from Luzdur to the Shispare Sar Base Camp:
At the foot of the majestic Shispare Sar, our base camp hummed with excitement. Nestled at 4,000 meters, the air was fresh, carrying the promise of adventure. Enveloped by rugged peaks, our journey kicked off, a collective gaze fixed on the colossal ascent looming ahead.
Camp I of Shispare Sar:
Ascending to Camp 1, perched at 5,500 meters, tested our limits. The landscape morphed into an ethereal blend of ice and rock. Gasping for breath in the thin air, Shispare Sar loomed on the horizon. Amid challenges, camaraderie with friends anchored us, lending strength to navigate the harsh terrain.
Camp II of Shispare Sar:
Camp 2, at 6,800 meters, felt like triumph over adversity. The winds roared, echoing tales of climbers before us, yet our determination held firm. Panoramic views inspired awe, each step a victory against the mountain’s formidable presence.
Camp III of Shispare Sar:
At 7,500 meters, as daylight waned, Camp 3 became our haven in the thin atmosphere. Biting winds carried whispers of resilience, huddled beneath the immense face of Shispare Sar. Our journey quickened, mirroring the heartbeat of the mountain.
Camp IV of Shispare Sar:
Ascending to Camp 4 at 8,500 meters was like entering a celestial realm. The air was thin, but our spirits soared. Bathed in an ethereal glow, we faced the impending challenge – the final push towards the summit. Despite the tiresome and challenging ascet, we were having the time of our lives. Our laughter echoing into the winds surrounding us, being a testament of the once-in-a-lifetime experience we were having.
Summit of the Breathtaking Shispare Sar:
The summit push, a breathtaking culmination at 7,611 meters, was a dance with the clouds. Standing atop Shispare Sar, the world below seemed to shrink, replaced by a triumphant panorama. Emotions surged a mix of exhaustion, elation, and camaraderie. It was more than conquering a mountain; it was a shared triumph. Seeing the whole Gilgit-Baltistan from the mountain top was like a dream come true.
Conclusion:
In a nutshell, our trip turned out to be perfect. Having climbed the breathtaking mountain, we returned to Islamabad to take some time to rest, as we still hadn’t completed our adventure. Our next destination was the Batura Sar Peak. While driving back to Islamabad, we got a call from our friends back home saying they could join us on the second half of our journey. After hearing the news I had forgotten all my doubts about this journey being a bad idea and was excited for our further adventures.