Mountaineering is not just about conquering the rocky giants; it’s an odyssey into the remotest areas, a quest to explore the lesser-known peaks and untouched places. While it’s an accomplishment to witness high-profile mountains such as K2 and Broad Peak, the little-known peaks hold their own charm, too. I realised it after beholding the magical grace of the ‘Bride Peak’ veiled in snowy mist, Chogolisa!
Here’s the odyssey that mirrors my emotions and feelings during the expedition to Chogolisa base camp following the exhilarating Broad Peak venture. Read the introspective journey, which, along with reflecting on the challenges and triumphs, also mentions all the necessary details about Chogolisa Mountain.
A Wake-Up Call for Adventure:
“Morning fellas! Wake up and pack up; we are heading towards Chogolisa today!” our guide announced, stirring us out from the tents while we rubbed our groggy eyes. The Broad Peak was glistening bright before us. Its magical charm once again captivated me for a moment.
Oscillating back from my imagination, I recalled last night’s decision to venture towards Chogolisa Mountain. My distraction in the surroundings made it difficult for me to hear the guide and porters briefing about the next destination, the routes, and the weather conditions. So, at the moment, I was totally numb.
“Anna, are you willing for it or not?” the guide inquired from me as I stood still.
“Oh yes, I am just wondering… can you tell me about Chogolisa again?” I could not help but ask curiously.
“Yes, sure!” he started.
About Chogolisa:
“Chogolisa is located at Kaberi Glacier and Vigne Glacier. It is a trapezoidal mountain, which means it is not just one but a group of mountains, comprising two summits and four ridges. The highest of them is Chogolisa I (Southwest face), which has a staggering height of 7,665 m. The second highest, Chogolisa II (Northeast) rises at an elevation of 7,654 metres.
Do you know Chogolisa II is titled ‘Bride Peak’? Martin Conway, a British politician and mountaineer was on his exploratory trip to K2 in 1892 when he saw Chogolisa. Its shape, resembling a bridal veil, captivated him. The white pyramid, entirely clad in snow, made it look like a shy and beautiful bride standing opposite the majestic K2. In admiration of its grace and presence, Conway couldn’t resist but honour the mountain with the title “Bride Peak”.
A lofty peak with a unique summit ridge mostly covered in snow, Chogolisa is one of the most impressive and exquisite mountains of the Karakoram range. Trust me, I have been to its base camp before and I couldn’t stop myself from its irresistible charm.”
After a little pause, he gazed at me and asked “Are you ready for it now? From here, Broad Peak base camp, Chogolisa is at a distance of 21.9 km to be exact. So, shall we set off?”
How could I, who was already fascinated by the details, deny this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity? I eagerly rose to my feet and swiftly packed my bag while everyone else was already done with theirs.
Trekking Trails:
Within minutes, I stood ready, akin to a wanderer poised on the brink of a new adventure. I was so eager to unravel the beauty of this mysterious Bride Peak. Stirred up with anticipation, we started our trekking expedition towards the south, to Chogolisa.
As per the guide’s instructions, the trek was going to take 2-3 days. To reach our destination, we had to traverse the rugged terrain of Vigne Glacier.
Trekking and hiking through tough landscapes are always the primary challenges for mountaineers, before blessing their eyes with the enthralling wonders of nature. Each trek unfolds new vistas, and each step brings them closer to the breathtaking destinations they aim for. The perspective fits best for us as well. As we ventured forth, the glimpses of towering majesties unveiled before us.
Catching A Glimpse of Gasherbrum Group:
Gasherbrum V, the spectacular mountain soaring at a height of 7,147 m, stood in all its glory beside us. Despite its considerable distance, it felt closer than ever, as if we were reaching out to touch the majesty of this peak. Fortune smiled upon us with clear weather, we got the privilege of catching a glimpse of an eight-thousander – Gasherbrum I, standing tall at 8,080 m.
The awe-inspiring beauty of these giants propelled us to accelerate our trek and reach our destination soon.
Taking A Break To Refuel:
After walking for hours, our energies were drained and we desperately needed a recharge. Thus, we decided to take a break and camp.
For dinner, I volunteered to make the noodles for the team. While my friends helped me ignite the fire and prepare the noodles, one of the two porters, Jamal, enlightened us with nuggets of knowledge about the local culture, tales of the mountains and traditions that run through generations in their Balti culture.
The insightful thing that he told us was, the meaning of Chogolisa’s name. It is derived from the Balti word ‘Chogo Ling Sa’ which translates to “The Great Hunt”.
Amidst the pristine wilderness while sitting beside the campfire, as we refuelled ourselves with a bowl of noodles, we filled not just our stomachs but also our minds with the shared knowledge, while the majestic backdrop worked its magic and replenished our strength for the journey ahead.
Continuing the Trek:
The stay turned out to be a revitalising phase, as I was invigorated by the scenic beauty and the hearty meal. With renewed vigour, I now had all my eyes on the Chogolisa Peak, which was becoming increasingly visible in the distance.
Along the way amidst several mountains, the Baltoro Kangri with a height of 7,312 metres also blessed our eyes. This expedition had proven to be more adventurous than I had ever imagined, offering a feast for my curious soul.
History of Triumphs And Tragedies On Chogolisa:
While we trekked towards Chogolisa, our guide shared an interesting history about Chogolisa that I believe is worth mentioning.
“The history of Chogolisa is something not to be missed. You know, it is a mix of triumphs and tragedies. It all started when in 1909, the Duke of the Abruzzi drew attention to Chogolisa by leading an expedition till 7,498 m (24,600 ft) from a base camp located on the northern side. But, bad weather, or call it bad luck, they couldn’t summit. However, their climb established a record.
Fast forward to 1957, the Australian mountaineers Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger, fresh from conquering Broad Peak, set their sights on Chogolisa. The narrative takes a tragic turn here, as an unforeseen snowstorm forced them to retreat. Alas, the legend, Buhl, fell into the near-vertical north face and disappeared forever. His body was never found, and left a mark on Chogolisa’s history.
On August 4, 1958, a Japanese expedition from the Academic Alpine Club Kyoto University, led by Takeo Kuwabara, accomplished the first ascent of Chogolisa II. Their victory added a new chapter of success to Chogolisa’s saga.
The first ascent of Chogolisa I is also a nerve-stirring story to be narrated. It was made on August 2, 1975, by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer, led by Eduard Koblmueller. The climbers reached the summit and celebrated victory, however, Koblmueller almost escaped a fate similar to Buhl’s as he fell through a snow cornice during ascent. Luckily, he was roped tightly and the team was able to pull him up safely.
So, you see, Chogolisa has never been an easy mountain!” said the guide, after doing the job of Wikipedia for us.
Hearing these tragedies and triumphs sent shivers down our spines. We were not expecting such emotional impact from the stories we encountered, the ascents, the setbacks, and the unforgiving nature of Chogolisa.
The good thing was, we traversed the final leg of our expedition while listening to these narratives. And finally, the glorious Bride Peak finally unveiled in all its majestic splendour!
Witnessing Chogolisa:
Huge as a kingdom, proudful like a queen, and adorned in a shimmering white mantle of snow, the mountain stood as a complete regal monarch. Chogolisa’s sheer magnitude commanded the landscape, its existence graced our souls. Its trapezoid shape looked impressive as if intricately crafted by nature’s artisan.
While we were admiring the mystique of the mountain, the cold winds cut through us like sharp blades. Although we weren’t aiming for the summit and going up the altitude, yet we could feel the crisp chill. Chogolisa is highly exposed to winds and deep snow. And we experienced it at the moment.
End of the Journey:
We camped the night at Chogolisa’s base camp, perched at a formidable altitude of 5000 metres. There, our guide quoted excellent lines by Mr. Hermann Buhl that echoed through my mind the whole night, amidst the grandeur but relentless nature.
He said,
“Mountaineering is a relentless pursuit. One climbs further and further yet never reaches the destination. Perhaps that is what gives it its own particular charm. One is constantly searching for something never to be found.”
We paid tribute to the fallen mountaineering legend. The next day, we decided to keep our adventure rolling and head out to witness another mountain: