The Karakoram range in Pakistan stands out as one of the highest and most mesmerizing mountain ranges in the world. These peaks are not merely a climbers’ holy grail but also a haven for mountaineers and explorers. The mountains, unspoiled by human existence, proudly display their majestic glory in the remote paradise of Gilgit-Baltistan.
For us, after feasting ourselves on the beautiful sight of Bride Peak, Chogolisa, we set off for yet another thrilling venture. This escapade is towards the last big mountain of Karakoram – Link Sar, a 7000er that was never climbed until 2019. Nestled in a deep isolated valley near the disputed border between Pakistan and India, Link Sar stood as one of the highest unascended peaks globally, driving attention from all aspiring mountaineers around the globe.
Aiming to Witness Link Sar:
Personally, I was drawn towards the Link Sar mountain after watching the great climb of four elite climbers – Steve Swenson, Mark Richey, Graham Zimmerman and Chris Wright on August 6th, 2019. Their remarkable ascent, documented in a vlog, tells a captivating tale of both majesty and misery. After watching it, I harbored a strong desire to witness the awe-inspiring presence of this compelling mountain.
So near yet so far, the Link Sar mountain from Chogolisa is just 18.5 km away. The proximity of this intriguing mountain became irresistible, and I couldn’t miss the opportunity to witness it. Consequently, a collective decision was made to venture further and explore more wonders within the Karakoram range.
The Expedition:
After long hours of trekking for days, we will be facing one of the most mesmerizing and renowned mountains of the Karakoram range. The thought was enough to ignite my anticipation and propel me. I went all the way and stood right beside the guide.
This time, I decided to narrate the great tales of Link Sar and impress everyone with the intricate details of history and ascent.
“Since the decision to escapade towards Link Sar is mine, I am taking the responsibility to enrich you all with the invaluable knowledge of the granite king. You, my fellows, behold yourselves for an unparalleled narration!” With that, I set the stage before raising the curtains. My friends, Lukas and Marc, chuckled for a moment but then cast curious glances my way as I strode ahead of them.
About Link Sar:
“With a soaring height of 7,041 m (23,100 ft), Link Sar roars in a seldom-visited valley in Karakoram. It graces a horseshoe-shaped alignment, connecting K6 and K7 around the head of the Charakusa Glacier. A member of the mighty Masherbrum range, it proudly stands as the final towering peak above 7000 meters. But you know why it is an interesting pinnacle? The summit retained its untouched allure until 2019!”
“Oh yes, I just recalled reading an article about that. The inaugural climb of one of the highest mountains in the world.” Lukas interrupted.
“Yes Lukas, you are right. Now allow me to reveal the reason behind it. Actually, the challenging location of Link Sar is what makes it one of the most formidable mountains. It is between the contested borders of Pakistan and India. The escalating tensions between both countries prompted Pakistan to close the region for climbers.
For nearly 35 years, this haven remained out of reach for enthusiastic summiters. Explorers like us were prohibited from wandering through Charakusa Glacier and Kaberi Glacier, the militarized zone in the heart of the Karakoram, where the Link Sar is located.” I sat on the rocky glacial floor for a while and took a sigh. Then, I joined the group again and continued.
First Ascent of Link Sar:
“Now, let me tell you about the first-ever ascent of Link Sar. The successful climb story of Steve Swenson, Mark Richey, Graham Zimmerman, and Chris Wright that completely intrigued me. Dwelling in one of the hardest-to-reach corners of Karakoram, Link Sar was attempted several times by numerous aspiring summiteers, mostly by Japanese teams in the mid-1970s. But Link Sar’s steep ribs and dark buttresses denied and pushed them back.
In 2001, Steve Swenson made his first attempt on the mountain, but he could only make a limited progress and couldn’t turn out victorious.
Fast forward to 2017, Steve joined two American climbers, Graham Zimmerman and Chris Wright; they attempted Link Sar via the east face. However, fate had different plans for them, rejecting their efforts at that time. You know how Chris describes the Link Sar? “A stunning, oft-tried, yet unclimbed granite monster in a seldom-visited valley in the heart of the Karakoram… it is undoubtedly one of the most compelling undone peaks of the greater ranges”. Noteworthy to mention that Chris had made a dozen expeditions to even grander ranges, but he couldn’t deny the sought-after prize of Link Sar.”
“Woah! Now, that’s impressive.” Marc exclaimed, expressing his astonishment.
“Yes! Indeed. But kudos to these legends that didn’t accept the defeat. They spent two years in training and preparation, leaving no stone unturned. In 2019, they returned with another gem in the team, Mark Richey – the legendary American alpinist. Even at the age of 61, he took the oath and joined the forces in an endeavor that was uncertain.
So, this multi-generational team with the power of youth and wisdom of age, set off in the pursuit of their passion and claim the prize of Link Sar.
The first challenge that arose for them was Graham’s sprained ankle. He had to be grounded for days until he got better and joined the team again. Next, the team made progress and went through winding crests of snow and ice. Throughout the climbing time, bad weather posed a recurring challenge, attempting to thwart their quest to reach the summit. When finally making their way up the mountain, Graham, leading the expedition, was swept off more than 100 feet into the void. Fortunately, luck was on his side, and he emerged unharmed.
Leveraging the different strengths and experiences of each member, they finally completed their remarkable ascent on 6 August 2019 via the mountain’s Southeast Face. The team earned the Gold Medal of Alpinism for their hard-fought victory on Link Sar!”. The sense of accomplishment resonated in my words.
“Woah Anna, you have done great research on this” The guide applauded my knowledge. (Information cross-checked from Wikipedia)
A Brief Stop to Admire K7:
After long hours of walking, we were nearer than ever to Link Sar. But before basking ourselves in its majesty, we took a brief pause to admire the breathtaking sight of K7 along our way. Positioned to the east on our journey from Chogolisa to Link Sar, K7 (also called Gomgma Gangri) proudly stood tall. A mammoth with an elevation of 6,934 meters (information sourced from Wikipedia), it graced the head of the Charakusa Valley and Charakusa Glacier.
We didn’t linger too long with our eyes firmly set on Link Sar. I could feel the allure, the urge to stand where the legends had stood. So, we got on our track and moved towards our destination.
Witnessing Link Sar – The Last Big Mountain:
At last! The moment was here. Every drop of sweat and every breath expended proved its worth as we laid eyes on the majestic granite King!
The Link Sar is undoubtedly well-guarded in the frozen fantasy of Karakoram, as it only revealed itself when we were finally standing in front of it. Its towering silhouette, shrouded in an aura of mystique, had cast a magic spell on all of us. I had my jaws dropped looking at the giant in front, and so does the others.
Technical Difficulty of Link Sar:
“You see, as majestic as it looks, doesn’t give summiteers an easy chance to conquer it. As Anna has already narrated about its ascent history, you all know why this mountain was conquered not long ago.” The guide started briefing us about the technical difficulty of Link Sar.
First and foremost, you need a permit if you are considering summiting it. Not just a permit, but also a Liaison Officer since it is located in a militarized zone. Beyond these regulatory requirements, one must contend with the technical difficulties too.
Flanked by seracs and cornices with barely any obvious lines, the climbers find it difficult to find the routes. It’s a mix of ice, snow and rock, and you can only move forward with rock climbing from bottom to top. The mountain is steep on every side so you have to be careful all the time. You might even have to sleep in a harness. There’s no chance of a mistake!
After the Advanced Base Camp, which sits at an elevation of over 3000m from the base camp, Camp 2 awaits at 5900m, and Camp 3 stands even higher at 6200m.
You know what? I have also been to its Advanced Base Camp while accompanying an expedition group in 2020. It was the best experience ever!”
End of the Journey:
In the midst of this frozen spectacle, Link Sar served as the centerpiece of the awe-inspiring panoramic. I spent the night basking in its icy embrace while the team gathered around a campfire at the base camp.
Under the glistening moon, enveloped by the darkness of the Karakoram, and nestled in our cozy tents, the curtains fell, marking the end of this story.
Delve into the next blog to read our journey ahead: A Hello to K6 And A Goodbye to Karakoram Ranges.