K2 – the first thing that comes to mind when thinking about the world’s second-highest mountain is, how dangerous it is to climb it. With a fatality rate 13.7%, it is the deadliest mountain in the world. Yet, only some enthusiastic people have made a name in the history by conquering this savage mountain. Now imagine, if this mountain is already a challenge in favorable conditions, is it possible to summit in the winter? If yes, who did the first winter ascent of K2?
First Winter Ascent of K2
Well, the Nepali Team shocked the world by being the first climbers in history to make a winter ascent of K2. Yes, these superhumans held hands together and dared to brave this icy realm, claiming a feat that no one had ever before.
As said by one of the climbers from the Nepali Team, every step was an effort. The weather was nothing they have experienced before. But they pushed through because they were dead set on getting to the top of the mountain.
Conquering the Savage Mountain
Standing at an impressive height of 8,611 meters, K2 or the Savage Mountain is nestled in the Karakoram Range, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. Climbing the hardest mountain, K2, is one of the best achievements of a mountaineer’s life. Though Mount Everest beats Savage Mountain in being the highest mountain, K2 is notorious for its extremely grueling ascent. Its high fatality rate might deter many summit seekers. But then, there are some madcaps that create history.
On January 16, 2021, an efficient team of ten was successful in reaching the second-highest summit in the world. It was a historical moment in the mountaineering world. Because there were numerous attempts to climb K2 during winters, but all of them were unfortunately, unsuccessful. A team of 10 Sherpas (Nirmal Purja and his team) were the first ones to have this feat.
Attempts of Winter Ascents of K2
The first attempts for the winter ascent of K2 were made from 1987 to 1988. A few Canadian and Britain climbers attempted to climb K2. They were unsuccessful in doing so because of the fierce winds, steep slopes, rugged terrain, constant rockfall and snowfall, and avalanches. After three months of trying, they had to give up and climb down the mountain. After that failed attempt, some other mountaineers also tried to reach the summit of K2. But again, they couldn’t because of the same reasons.
The team of ten led by the Nepalese Sherpa, Nirmal Purja, and Mingma Gyalje was fortunate because of the short weather window. The wind died down to ten miles per hour, which is not even expected in the summers, let alone the winter. The miraculous weather conditions gave them a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. And they took it to become the first climbers ever to set foot on K2 during winter.
Challenging Expedition
After resting at the high camp (7,350 m), they headed out for their attempt to climb the summit successfully with the temperature ranging to -40 °C but with low wind per hour at 1 a.m. By 5 pm they would call themselves to be the first climbers to climb K2 during winter.
The team’s journey was not as easy as it sounds. Although they got lucky, anything could happen at any moment. Some of the major risks were, altitude sickness, high-altitude pulmonary edema, and severe rockfall. But with the team’s efficiency, none of them had to suffer from major consequences.
Their expedition started on December 26 when they mutually decided to take the Abruzzi Spur route. With constant acclimatizing, the team of Sherpas moved from Camp 1 to Camp 2 then Camp 3. Four members of the team were not able to continue with the team as their health was at risk.
For New Year’s Eve, Nirmal Purja and his team went back to the base camp. That’s when the weather took a turn as the winds started blowing 60 miles per hour. On top of that, when they arrived at Camp 2, their gear and camping essentials were gone. Purja at that moment acted as the perfect leader and motivated his team. One of the things he said when boosting the morale of his fellow climbers was “We plan for the worst, and hope for the best”.
Claiming A Feat Together
This ascent did not only make history but was really personal to all of the climbers. 10 meters from the summit, the Nepali Team stood and sang the Nepali national anthem. This invoked a lot of emotions among the climbers because they could see their incredibly gruelling journey coming to the end they wished.
On January 16, the team finally made it to the summit. The exceptional mountaineers and record breakers worn out. But still, they kept pushing through the hardships and natural calamities as the route to their success kept getting clearer.
Conclusion
The Nepali team’s conquest of K2 during the frigid winters to this day is an exceptional example of human spirit, remarkable determination, and resilience. Their achievements not only motivated and inspired other climbers but also made history.
Increasing the possibilities of climbing the deadliest mountain, the Nepali team also urged us all to try harder and experience the high-risk but thrill-packed adventure.