The Chronicles of Pumari Chhish

Marvel at the exceptional beauty of Pumari Chhish, a wondrous mountain that will make you forget all your previous adventures.

To my eyes, climbers stand as the most captivating souls, embodying a treasury of countless untold tales. If the world could catch even a glimpse of these narratives, they would undoubtedly be bewitched by the captivating essence of the sport. My invigorating odyssey to the stunning Pumari Chhish is a testament to that. 

Tucked away in the enchanting Shimshal Valley, a village in the Karakoram range, Pumari Chhish is one of the most prominent parts of the valley. The majestic mountain is part of the Hispar Muztagh (sub-range of Karakoram) in the mighty Karakoram Mountain range. At an elevation of 7,492 meters, Pumari Chhish lies about 4 km east of Khunyang Chhish, in the heart of the Hispar, north of the Hispar Glacier. (Information sourced from Wikipedia)

Traveling has always been my passion. There is something about the towering trees swaying gently, the majestic mountains standing as silent sentinels, and the lakes looking like something out of a fantasy world. In 2016, I decided I was going to write a book about the unappreciated wonders of the world. 

Every year since 2016, I choose a country and embark on a journey to the destination where my finger lands across the map. This time, during my annual ritual of selecting a destination, fate pointed me to the astonishing Pumari Chhish.

The breathtaking Pumari Chhish is encapsulated between multiple breathtaking 7000+ peaks, creating a surreal view. After researching the location thoroughly and ensuring I had packed all the essential gear, my journey to Pumari Chhish began.

Here is a list of everything I packed:

  • Sturdy and reliable mountaineering boots
  • Warm clothing with layers that are windproof and waterproof
  • A water bottle
  • Climbing tools
  • A Helmet
  • Harness
  • Carabiners
  • Climbing ropes
  • Slings
  • Navigation tools like a GPS, a compass, and a map
  •  High-energy snacks
  • A first-aid kit
  • Sunscreen for sun protection.
  • A communication device

I used to struggle with packing efficiently before, but with the experience my book gave me, along with some insightful articles, I was able to pack all the necessities with me.

Here are the links to the articles that helped me pack efficiently:

A Beginner’s Guide to Camping: Tips and Gears

Experiencing the Thrill of Mountaineering Sports in Pakistan

A Soaring Flight to Pakistan:

Returning to Missouri, my hometown, from another adventure of mine, I managed to rally my hometown friends for yet another unforgettable adventure. During my restless flight to Pakistan, my mind was abuzz with endless thoughts about how my journey would unfold. My friends and I were prepared and eager. We were ready to unravel the extraordinary beauty of Pumari Chhish.

Touching down at Kansas International Airport, our journey unfolded as we landed at Dubai International Airport. After a 7-hour layover, we finally touched down in the land of traditions and culture—Islamabad, Pakistan.

A Magical Odyssey to Hispar Village:

After an exceptional day in Islamabad, we headed to the Jeep Adda to rent one for our remaining adventures. Going to the Jeep Adda came with a lot of negotiating. You should seriously consider your bargaining skills before talking to these drivers because, man, oh man, they can be persuasive. Finally, after numerous rejections from multiple drivers, we settled for 20,000 PKR to reach Hispar village.

The rocky route from Karimabad to Hispar was tiring yet so worth it. The treacherous terrain both kept me on the edge of my seat and blew my mind with the beautiful scenery surrounding it. After almost a whole day of being on high alert, we were at the stunning Hispar Village.

Trekking up the Hispar Glacier:

We stayed in the Hispar Village for about three days, trying to get porters to join us on our exhilarating journey. After much persuasion, we had porters carry our bags and were ready for the journey ahead. At this point of our adventure, a newfound determination gripped my friends and me. We eagerly embraced the challenges ahead, fully prepared for the journey awaiting us. 

Our trek up the Hispar Glacier surprisingly went like a breeze. The Hospitable porters and the breathtaking scenery created an intoxicating environment. Though some parts were quite a challenge, our optimism and determination helped us significantly. 

Making Our Way to the Base Camp of Pumari Chhish:

From the glacier, we started making our way to the base camp. The climb to our base camp was miraculously not as challenging as we predicted it to be because of the dry weather. For the first time on this climbing journey, I was sure that we could make it to the top of the mountain. After climbing continuously for several hours, we found ourselves at an elevation of 4,500 meters, which marked our base camp. Subsequently, we carefully pitched our tents at the base camp, strategically placing them against the stunning backdrop of the towering peaks and pristine landscapes.

Climbing Rasool SAR for Acclimatization:

Rasool SAR is said to be named by Raphael Slawinski, a physics professor known for his interests in alpinism and ice climbing. The physics professor named the mountain in honor of their cook, guide, and friend Hajji Ghulam Rasool. Climbing the 5,900-meter mountain was moderately challenging, but climbing Rasool SAR helped us adapt to the frigid weather. 

The Advanced Base Camp of Pumari Chhish:

Climbing Rasool SAR was not a walk in the park; however, it significantly eased our journey. After approximately 6 to 7 hours, we reached the advanced base camp (5,300m). Setting our tents, thus we prepared for some rest, oblivious to what lay ahead. The next day, we woke up to extremely severe weather conditions that confined us all within the shelter of our tents. Consequently, the only emotion I could feel at that time was pessimism. We were trapped, and we could not do anything about it.

Our doomsday lasted for a total of 96 hours. My teammates couldn’t believe their eyes when they first witnessed the weather outside. Subsequently, all my group members wasted no time convening a meeting to strategize how we would approach Pumari Chhish.

Our Epic Ascent to the Summit to Pumari Chhish:

pumari-chhish-summit

From the advanced base camp, situated at an elevation of 5,300 meters, we stood as ready as we could ever be. Fueled by a readiness that surpassed mere preparedness, we were eager to embark on the ascent. As the climb grew increasingly challenging, the only beacon propelling me forward was a powerful quote I learned from a seasoned climber. He said, “Mountaineering is a dream.” With this in mind, we were putting everything at stake to go to the end of our dream. Here the dream is the mountain, but the mountain is only the end of the road. Mountaineering is to value all the paths leading to the mountain.” 

We were slowed down, multiple times because of the technical difficulties and freezing weather but having the summit in view motivated us. It took us a total of 5 difficult days and man, was it worth it. Being at the top of Pumari Chhish was better than anything I ever imagined. The landscape unfolded like verses from the poetic realm of John Keats. The snow-covered peaks enveloping us in their overwhelming beauty casted an ethereal glow that danced upon the pristine slopes. 

Conclusion:

This odyssey, to this day, holds a special place both in my heart and the pages of my book. Additionally, it allowed my teammates and me to not only delve deeper into the art of climbing but also embark on the expedition of our lives. Despite encountering various challenges, ultimately, in the end, everything fell into place, providing me with yet another adventure to rave about in my book.

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