Being an avid explorer, there are plenty of stories in my travel diary waiting to be told. However, the one I’m reflecting on here, the expedition to Haramosh Peak, holds a special place in my heart. This blog will reveal all the reasons why!
Every year, when the vacations are around the corner, my husband and I lay out a map on the table, craft plans, and get backpacks set to explore a new corner of the world. In May, I was wondering, where would destiny lead us this time?
Perhaps the book of fate already held the answers; I merely needed a hint. A reel pops up showcasing the refreshing beauty of Pakistan amidst the monsoon. Isn’t it the perfect season to explore the northern side of Pakistan more? I found myself pondering over these thoughts that drifted to the adventures that awaited.
Just as I was deep in reflection, Alex, my husband, surprised me with a blast from the past—a picture of us at the Masherbrum base camp. The freezing nights, exhausting treks, heavenly vistas, that journey remains my all-time favorite.
So, what was next? Where were we heading in Pakistan this summer?
Little did we know, the highest peak in the Rakaposhi-Haramosh massif, Haramosh Mountain, was calling us to witness its glory – the world’s 67th highest mountain and Pakistan’s 28th highest, as Wikipedia enlists. However, the valley Haramosh, where the peak is located, is quite less explored than others only because of the gruelling trek it requires.
After investing a few days in searching about the valley, I found myself enthralled by the captivating pictures of the peak and the challenging trek leading to the valley. That was the moment of decision – this is where we were going!
This article is a recount of my rollercoaster-like expedition to Haramosh Peak, Laila Peak, exploring the picturesque Kutwal village, the enthralling lake and much more!
Flying to Islamabad, Pakistan
While in Spain, on the day of our flight, I felt a different exhilaration this time before taking off for Pakistan. As the plane set forth and hovered in the air, the vivid pictures of Haramosh Valley floated in my mind. All this time, my husband, Alex, would search more about the place and ensure our expedition went smoothly, as always.
Islamabad airport felt familiar as this wasn’t our first time here. However, the outlanders were welcomed with curious faces and joyful smiles as usual. Though, it never felt odd and, in fact, made it a wholesome start for us every time.
The guide Sohaib Roomi, who had become a friend of my husband’s, was already waiting for us. We rested in the hotel and then prepared ourselves for the domestic flight to Skardu.
Haramosh Peak dwells within the sub-range of the Karakoram range, Rakaposhi-Haramosh mountains. It is roughly 65 kilometres (40 miles) to the east of Gilgit, located in Kutwal village, whose trek is accessible from Sassi. The geographical details might be confusing for now, so let’s break it down step by step.
Road Journey Covering Skardu – Sassi – Dassu
Arriving in Skardu is always a gleeful experience. Encircled by towering mountains, the sensation of being around the breathtaking natural beauty is nothing short of surreal. The landscape of Skardu is like an idyllic canvas that feasts your eyes with its grandeur.
After briefly exploring the city and an overnight stay, we headed towards Sassi, a town at an elevation of 1,449 meters on the great northern bend of the Indus River on the Gilgit-Skardu road. Located at the foothills of Haramosh Valley, the town boasts a comprehensive range of amenities, including jeeps, porters, stores, and hotels, setting the stage for a seamless start to the expedition.
Reaching Sassi was a straightforward journey, spanning 2.5 hours. After a short stay for lunch, we hired a jeep for Rent for 14,000 PKR to transport us to Dassu, where the real off-road adventure awaited.
Travelling to Dassu was much more delightful than I expected. Riding in an open-roof jeep, I didn’t waste the opportunity to look out and relish a 360-degree view of the jaw-dropping vistas that surround us. The panoramic feasts heightened my excitement as we traversed the scenic road to Dassu. Throughout the route, Alex never lowered his camera and documented each breathtaking frame.
But as pleasing as the journey was, the dangers never left. The thoughts of a potential trip down the narrow track sent shivers down my spine, being a constant caution amidst the grandeur of nature. I could recall having an instant flashback moment when a jeep had to navigate past us on what seemed like the narrowest track ever.
After a 2.5-hour thrilling jeep ride, we reached the village of Dassu. It was already dusk, and we decided to camp for the night, where the basic facilities were available too. One of my favourite experiences in Pakistan is breakfast, where the parathas enriched with oil, paired with a strong cup of tea, create a perfect and invigorating start to the day. This was a much-needed energy boost as we had to prepare ourselves for the one-hour hike ahead from Dassu to Silpee. We hired a guide (6000 PKR) and two porters (7000 PKR each) to accompany us further.
Hiking Trails
The uphill ascent through rugged terrain led us to Silpee, where we took a brief pause for lunch. The locals there were engrossed in their daily chores as we sat around them, fueled with an enthusiastic mission. Alex and I went on to savour some fruits freshly borne by the trees in the serene and rejuvenating setting.
Continuing our trek, we went on towards Iskare, a journey that consumed 2.5 hours while walking through refreshing waterfalls and raging rivers.
The steep hike quite exhausted us, but we were still pumped up for our destination. A small cascade became a convenient spot for making noodles at the Iskere campsite. My eager soul couldn’t wait longer, so we continued our hike.
The hike went through the forest, then towards the Mani Glacier. Even in the month of June, there were snow patches around. It was slippery walking onto it, and we were told to be careful. But even then, the next moment marked the onset of pain for me, becoming an unexpected interval in our journey.
While crossing the rocky track through a gushing river, I accidentally slipped and lost my balance. In a fleeting moment, it felt as if the world was collapsing around me. I found myself submerged in the water when my foot collided with a rock. Luckily, Alex was quick to pull me up and help me out safely. After a huge sigh of relief, I found myself sitting with a sore foot along the river amidst the magnificent nature.
Alex became very worried about me and how I would continue the hike with an injured foot. But all thanks to the guide, porters, and the locals who came for help, together they aided me with natural remedies, ensuring I wouldn’t have to halt midway.
This is how the prompt care and support propelled me, and we continued our journey.
Reaching the Kutwal Village, Haramosh Valley
Finally, after almost an exhaustive 7-8 hours of hiking through challenging terrain, unstable bridges, narrow tracks, flowing rivers, and my injured foot, we reached the village of Kutwal. This trek turned out to be an adventure laden with difficulties. It was the moment when I understood why this place was relatively less explored.
But, oh goodness! I was totally flabbergasted by the jaw-dropping beauty of the valley. I even asked Alex to pinch me because it felt utterly unbelievable!
Could Earth be this beautiful? I asked myself. Though we had travelled near and far, this place had a unique serenity unlike any we had encountered before. The kids there stirred with excitement upon seeing us, two adventitious faces in their locality. Being less explored, the locals were very welcoming to everyone who ventured into their area. We even engaged with them in a game of cricket where I could barely hit a six, but Alex went on for some pretty good shots. Being in the lush green land between colossal mountains where the most hospitable locals welcomed us, this journey became very special.
Adding more flavours to the adventure, the rainfall poured over us as we headed to Haramosh Peak. While we were seeking shelter, some locals treated us to their rain-special meal called Pakoras. We continued wandering in the valley while stunning views of the snow-capped Haramosh massif surrounded us. It consists of two main summits: Haramosh Peak and Laila Peak.
Haramosh Peak
When I saw the first sight of Haramosh Peak, all my pain faded away. The mountain stood all in its majestic glory, and I felt like a seeker, conquering heights in the pursuit of its awe-inspiring presence.
With a height of 7,409 meters, Haramosh lies in the south-central region of the Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains which is a subrange of the mighty Karakoram range. The peak was first reconnoitred in 1947 when a Swiss team explored the area. It witnessed its first successful ascent in 1958 by an Austrian team, which included Heini Roiss, Stephan Pauer, and Dr. Franz Mandl. (Information sourced from Wikipedia)
We camped for the night around this enthralling mountain, and it turned out to be the most blissful experience. The proximity to Haramosh Peak under the starry night added a magical touch to our entire adventure.
As the dawn rose, the valley transformed into an even more enchanting spectacle. It was like waking up in a fairyland, surrounded by the ethereal beauty of Haramosh. After a simple breakfast, we decided to trek toward Kutwal Lake, yet another main attraction in the valley. It is 6.0 km away from the Haramosh mountain.
Exploring the Enchanting Kutwal Lake
Kutwal Lake is one of the world’s highest-altitude lakes at 3260 meters above sea level. The lake looks paradisical while sparkling with mesmerizing sights of Haramosh, Laila and Dobani peaks in it. Enveloped in the serene surroundings, we found ourselves unable to resist the allure. And ended up spending the night camping around the lake. The tranquillity of the place completely captivated us, making it an irresistible spot for an extended stay.
Conclusion
The expedition to Haramosh Peak turned out to be very special for me. Despite the soar memories of pain, the overwhelming beauty of the surroundings prevailed and made it a rewarding experience.
With the right equipment and gear, the Haramosh Valley is the perfect haven for thrill-seekers who revel in the joys of trekking and hiking. Its challenging yet breathtaking terrain and awe-inspiring landscapes make it an ideal destination for those seeking an adrenaline-pumping and visually captivating adventure!
For us, we set off at dawn for yet another adventure from Kutwal Lake, to witness the glory of Laila Peak. Delve into the next blog to read that exhilarating journey: The Soul-Soothing Sight of Laila Peak of Haramosh Valley.