My dad and I have always bonded over climbing mountains. When I was just a toddler, my dad used to take me on hikes. I have been fascinated by the thrill of it all from then on. When I was fourteen, my dad went on an excursion to the Hindukush Range but returned unsuccessful because of some health problems. When I was sixteen, he died of a heart attack.
At eighteen, I decided that I was the only one who could continue my father’s legacy. That is how I decided to continue my father’s Hindukush Range excursion. My father had already climbed the three highest peaks of Hindukush, Tirich Mir, Noshaq, and Istor-o-Nal. So, I decided to continue his legacy by climbing the mountains of Hindukush.
From the blogs and videos, I had watched, it was always evident that the Hindukush Range is not as popular. The Karakoram and Himalayan ranges are well-known around the world, but the way my dad described the range to me, I always used to think that Hindukush is the most significant part of the mountaineering world. After my experience, the one thing I deduced was that the Hindukush Range is not as appreciated as it should be.
Saraghrar Mountain, nestled in the Hindukush range, located in the Chitral district of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan, is the fourth-highest peak of the range. It has a grand massif with numerous summits; some of them are the NE summit (7,340m), the northwest summit (7,300 m), the southwest summit (7,148 m), the south summit (7,307 m), and the southeast summit (7,208 m).
People consider Saraghrar’s southeast summit to be the easiest out of all the known summits, but my team and I gravitated towards the NW summit of the mountain. Archil Badriashvili’s climbing experience on the same route inspired us and we were all ready to begin our thrilling expedition.
We got our permit in no time, which was surprising as I had seen my father postpone his trips for the same reason. We quickly booked our plane ticket and flew out to Islamabad, Pakistan.
Islamabad to Chitral:
After our brief yet memorable stay in Islamabad, we rented a car for our 10-hour drive to Chitral. I fell in love with the beautiful culture, the welcoming locals, and the vibrant shops along the way. After multiple stops at hotels and restaurants, and witnessing the marvelous landscape of Pakistan, we finally reached the Chitral district.
Exploring the local markets in Chitral occupied our first few days, during which we purchased artifacts and souvenirs for ourselves.
Chitral to Zondrangram:
The next day, we prepared ourselves for the road ahead of us, Zondrangram village located in Terich Valley. Despite the rocky routes, the panoramic view made the 7 to 8-hour drive worthwhile. After covering 75 to 80 miles, we finally arrived at Zondrangram. We camped there overnight to rest for the remaining journey waiting for us.
Zondrangram to Roshgol Valley:
We left our rented jeep in Zondrangram and continued our remaining journey on foot. Roshgol as described by Archil Badriashvili is one of the forgotten treasures of Hindukush. Majestic 6,000-meter and 7,000-meter peaks surround the enchanting valley. It took us approximately 6 to 7 hours to finally reach the valley. The walk was not as hard as I imagined and the awestrucking landscape that encapsulated us during our walk made it easier.
Roshgol Valley to Base Camp:
From Roshgol Valley, we arrived at our base camp at an elevation of 4,204 meters. The trek was pretty straightforward, but we decided to climb Languta-e-Barfi to get used to the weather. It took us three days to reach the south face of the mountain.
Base Camp to Languta-e-Barfi:
To adapt to the extreme weather of Hindukush and acclimatize, we decided to climb the snow-capped Languta-e-Barfi (6,827 m). The mountain was given its name because of its appearance. The mountain was a moderate ascent, we faced some difficulty while climbing the steep slopes but other than that our journey went smoothly. It only took us a day to reach the summit from where we could see Afghanistan’s side of the massif and then get back to the base camp again.
Base Camp to Camp I of the Saraghrar Mountain:
Even though the weather was quite difficult to navigate, it still turned out to be beneficial for us. The ice wall was sturdy to climb on. The slopes were steep, but we managed to climb quite easily. Around 5 pm we were 6000 meters above the ground, where we set up our Camp I. The ascent was tiring but it went without any hiccups which gave me hope for having a victorious trip.
Camp I to Camp II of the Saraghrar Mountain:
The next morning, we were positive that we would be able to cover a significant amount of distance, but the weather had some other plans. As soon as we started climbing, one of my teammates got injured and had to make a detour back to the base camp. Dealing with that issue took quite a bit of time. It was almost 11 pm when we continued our ascent. The terrain kept getting narrower and steeper, but we pulled through. At 6,600 meters we decided to set our camp II as we were too tired to climb further.
Camp II to Camp III of the Saraghrar Mountain:
At camp two, while preparing to ascent further I had almost given up. I was almost sure I would not be able to survive the cold and was ready to go back to the base camp but then I thought about how I’m not only doing this for myself but my dad too. After my emotional breakdown, we continued our trek. 50 meters into our ascent, I accidentally broke my ice axe but luckily it was not anything major as I quickly regained my balance. One of my teammates even had an extra ice axe, so we recovered in no time. After that minor accident, I was a little shaken up, so we decided to stop at 6,700 meters for the day.
Camp III to Camp IV of the Saraghrar Mountain:
In the morning, I found out that another one of my teammates was going back to the base camp as he had gotten frostbite. Everyone on the team was feeling pretty low and the only thing that was helping them keep going was the view of the summit. The terrain kept getting trickier as we climbed further but we didn’t give up. Every movement needed to be well thought-out and precise as there were a lot of risks of ice cracking or avalanches. We stopped at 6,900 meters as the weather didn’t allow us to move further. We slept there with the hopes of getting to see the Hindukush range from the top tomorrow.
Camp IV to Summit of The Saraghrar Mountain:
After having some breakfast, we prepared ourselves for our final day. Though most of my teammates were pessimistic and didn’t think we would be able to reach the top, I was sure we would make it. We started early in the morning just so we could reach the summit during daylight. The trail kept getting narrower as we climbed higher but seeing the summit getting closer with every step, we took helped us stay motivated.
Finally, we made it to the top and it was worth everything my team and I put up with. The view was beyond words can even describe, with Languta-e-Barfi in complete view, standing in all of its glory along with other Hindukush mountains. I was suddenly hit with a feeling of grief and happiness all together. I was incredibly happy to be able to successfully climb Saraghrar and continue where my dad had left.
The Descent:
After celebrating for a brief moment, we decided to descend back to the base camp. The descent was tiring, and it took us two days to finally reach the base camp. Most of my team was tired but I felt jittery because of how happy I was with our victorious journey. Despite the numerous challenges we encountered, we persevered and successfully reached the summit, returning unscathed.
Conclusion:
Climbing the Saraghrar Mountain, I realized how the Hindukush range is nearly not as appreciated as it should be. The beauty of the range is unfathomable. Having scaled mountains across the globe, the captivating beauty of Saraghrar Mountain remains indelibly etched in my memory.
In this diverse mountain range, you’ll find peaks of all kinds. If you seek a climb that combines accessibility with breathtaking views, Saraghrar Mountain is the perfect choice.