When someone asks you, what is that one thing that can get you talking even when you don’t want to or what are you passionate about? What will your answer be? Well, I have had my answer since I was an early teen. Inherited mountaineering passion from dad, who raved about the unmatched joy of nature’s embrace. There is something about basking in nature and thriving without our cell phones.
There are majestic mountains all around the world, but the geography of Pakistan has always fascinated me. As soon as I turned eighteen, I knew where I had to travel first. Pakistan is home to three major mountain ranges: Karakoram, the Himalayas, and Hindukush. The Karakoram and Himalayan ranges are notorious for their unique and complex terrains of challenging mountains such as K2 and Nanga Parbat, so I decided to start in Hindukush.
Tucked away in the scenic Chitral District of the North-West Province of Pakistan, at 7,403 meters, Istor-o-Nal is the third-highest mountain in the Hindukush range and the 68th-highest mountain in the world. It covers a massif with 11 peaks, all of which are at an elevation of at least seven thousand meters. Istor-o-Nal was named after its horseshoe shape.
The mountain is not as well-known as it is hidden behind the highest Hindukush peak, Tirich Mir (7,708 meters) but because of its accessibility and scenery, I decided to climb Istor-o-Nal.
For years, I had watched videos and read blogs of experienced climbers, which helped me significantly while packing. Little did I know, the thrill of the climb would momentarily be overshadowed by the unexpected challenge of obtaining a permit. A month of anticipation, applications sent out like messages in bottles, and then, the moment of triumph! We secured our permit, and now the sweet taste of victory adds an extra layer of excitement to our previously delayed adventure. The mountains await, and we’re ready to conquer.
One thing I also learned by knowing so much about climbing was that you need to have as much knowledge as you can about the mountain you are climbing on. Nature can be unpredictable, so knowing about the routes and how to prepare, along with efficient skills, is integral. Finally, after being completely sure of climbing Istor-o-Nal by reading everything I could find on the internet, training strenuously, and preparing for everything, I booked my flight to Islamabad, Pakistan.
Flying to Islamabad:
My friends and I packed our essentials and got ready to fly to Islamabad. Throughout the flight, I could only think about the adventures I was going to have once I landed in Pakistan. After a long flight, we finally arrived in the capital of Pakistan, Islamabad. After a two-day stay, we visited tourist attractions like the Pakistan Monument and Faisal Mosque. The stay was short yet memorable.
Drive To Chitral:
We decided to rent a jeep for our drive to Chitral (394 km). The 8 to 10-hour drive was full of adventure and breathtaking scenery. With multiple stops to fuel ourselves, we finally reached Chitral. Staying in Chitral was one of the highlights of my trip. Traveling to a country alone was nerve-wracking at first but Pakistan’s welcoming culture and locals made me feel at home. The streets of Chitral were vibrant and full of life. We stayed there for two days before continuing our journey to Istor-o-Nal. In those two days, we visited the tourist attractions in the district.
Kalash Valley:
The next day, we prepared our backpacks for our trek. Though it took me some time to get the hang of walking with my backpack on for so long, the incredibly beautiful Valley made up for the struggle. The lush greenery along with the blooming flowers was the best way I could imagine starting this trip. Zani Pass:From the Kalash Valley, we started our journey to Zani Pass. Located at an elevation of 3,886 meters, the Zani Pass is known to be an ideal location to acclimatize. We acclimatized there for a while, before heading to our next spot.
Shahgrom:
From trekking through the routes of Zani Pass, we were finally led to the mesmerizing village of Shahgrom. Strolling around the village, I could see the beautiful culture and locals. Their uniqueness fascinated me, and I was intrigued by Pakistan’s culture even more after witnessing the locals and their traditions.
Lower Tirich Glacier to Base Camp of Istor-O-Nal:
After Shahgrom, our next spot was the Lower Tirich Glacier. This is where I started doubting myself. I wasn’t sure if I was cut out for this particular sport, but the panoramic view from the glacier gave me all of the answers I needed. It took us almost three days to finally reach the intermediate base camp (13,000 feet).
Base Camp to Camp I:
The ascent to Camp I from the base camp was complex, to say the least. The weather was not cooperating, so we had to be precise with our every move. There were avalanche risks throughout our journey, but we pulled through and finally, after a long journey, we arrived safely at Camp I (18,000 feet).
Camp I to Camp II of Istor-O-Nal:
Just when I thought things were about to get better for us, they got worse. It was snowing constantly, so we had to stay in our tents at Camp I until it stopped. We resumed our trek, trying to reach Camp II, along with protecting ourselves from the treacherous terrain. At last, we were at a camp approximately 20,000 feet above sea level.
Camp II to Camp III of Istor-O-Nal:
The climb was getting harder as we climbed higher, but we were determined to reach the top. We knew we could make it, we just needed to be consistent and be as cautious as we can to make it to the top. Camp III being at 21,000 feet made the ascent a lot trickier than it was before, but we managed to reach our destination somehow.
Camp III to Camp IV of Istor-O-Nal:
After taking a short break at Camp III, we continued our trek. The trek from Camp III to Camp IV was the hardest for me. I wanted to give up and go back to the base camp. I was having second thoughts about mountaineering even though it is my favorite sport. At that point, nothing seemed to be motivating me as I was beyond tired but seeing my friends being so willing to reach the summit made me do better. After covering a significant amount of distance, we set up our tents at Camp IV (22,400 feet).
Camp IV to Summit of Istor-O-Nal:
After a quick breakfast, we packed our backpacks again ready to finally trek our way to the summit. The frigid weather kept slowing us down, but we felt encouraged to keep going by the vision of the majestic peak just a few miles away from us. By being precise and efficient with our movements on the narrow ridge we started covering the distance to make it to the summit while there was still light. Our excitement kept building as we kept getting to the summit but reaching the summit that day was not in the cards for us. Our view started to get foggy, and the only wise decision was to follow our old tracks, back to Camp IV.
After spending the night, we resumed our trek at 5 am, hoping to reach the summit by 4 pm. After a long and tiring journey, we finally reached the summit. For a moment I forgot about all the struggles we had to go through to reach the summit. Everything felt perfect. We could see the highest Hindukush peak, Tirich Mir along with other ethereal peaks that made the view out of this world.
As we stood on the summit, the crisp mountain air filled our lungs, and the sense of accomplishment washed over us. The fatigue from the arduous trek seemed to dissipate as we took in the awe-inspiring panoramic view that stretched before our eyes. Surrounded by the majesty of the mountains, we took a moment to reflect on the journey. It was a reminder that the journey, with all its struggles, was an integral part of the adventure.
The Descent:
The descent back to the base camp was uneventful yet extremely tiring. One of the locals we were acquainted with while exploring Chitral prepared a meal for us upon our return to the base camp. The next two days my friends and I explored Chitral before heading back to Islamabad to catch our flight.
Conclusion:
Though our journey had some hurdles, it still turned out to be perfect. From my experience with the locals of Pakistan to climbing the Istor-o-Nal Mountain, everything worked out just fine. Istor-o-Nal was my gateway to the Hindukush range. After visiting Istor-o-Nal, I fell in love with the beauty of the range. Before even reaching my home, I started making plans for my next trip to Hindukush.
While climbing Istor-o-Nal, I got to revel in the magnificence of the range and if it were possible, I would have extended my stay there. The rich culture, the vibrant decorations, and the unique traditions along with the breathtaking monuments had me hooked.
It is every climber’s dream to climb the mountains of Karakoram and the Himalayas one day, but trust me when I say this, once you go to Hindukush, you will never want to leave. There is something about the mountains there that just feels like home. So, if you want to start your climbing journey from Pakistan then, the Hindukush range is the perfect place for you.