Sometimes, the least anticipated adventures can turn out to be the most rewarding, too.
Watching your dream fulfilled is a feeling truly unparalleled. Imagine aiming for something for so long and finally achieving it. For mountaineers, it’s akin to the anticipation of witnessing a mountain and finally standing next to it, the sense of accomplishment is indescribable.
That’s exactly how I felt during this expedition. Witnessing K2 had always been a dream of mine, and this journey had given me everything I had wished for – standing in the shadow of K2, honoring the memory of Arthur Gilkey, and surrendering to the serene embrace of the Karakoram.
I felt like there was nothing left anymore that could tug at my heartstrings. This was true until I witnessed another wonder of Karakoram, Skil Brum – a hidden gem that surpassed all expectations.
The Morning Announcement:
As if sitting beneath the expansive night sky, nestled beside the crackling campfire amidst the towering mountains, wasn’t enchanting enough, the dawn at Concordia turned out even more blissful. The journey up to this point had been nothing short of fascinating, and I couldn’t have asked for more. (If you haven’t read about my previous journey, delve into it here first before continuing with this narrative.)
When the first rays of dawn cast a soft glow over K2, I was flabbergasted. Seated beside me was Neha, a newfound friend I had met on the tour. Despite being a local, our shared passion for the mountains had forged a strong bond between us. She was accompanying her husband in this expedition, Amir, an avid explorer.
As we sat and chatted, the mountains of Concordia gradually came alive, the peaks glistening under the morning sun. After a while, Amir came with an announcement:
“Neha, Isabella, come. Pack your bags. We’re heading to another mountain.”
“Another mountain? I don’t remember if we had any other one in our itinerary after K2.” Neha inquired.
“Yes, we didn’t. I just talked to the guide, and he said we still have ample time. He wants us to explore the underrated beauty of Karakoram.” Amir said.
“Underrated beauty? Which is that now?” I interjected out of curiosity.
“Skil Brum. Look, over there” Amir replied, pointing towards a majestic peak in the southwest. Before I could inquire further, Neha sprang into action, and so we hastened to pack our bags.
Expedition to Skil Brum:
In no time, the tour team stood ready. However, I hesitated to leave the dreamy place just yet. It felt like I needed more time to soak in the serenity of Concordia. Without much thought, I proposed staying behind while the team continued on to Skil Brum. The guide turned to me and said,
“Isabella, you shouldn’t miss this opportunity. Skil Brum is a wonderful mountain, and trust me, you will love it.”
I couldn’t refuse more; hence, we began our trek toward Skil Brum. Our guide started sharing important details about the mountain along the way.
About Skil Brum:
“I believe Skil Brum is one of the most underrated mountains in Karakoram. Standing tall at a massive height of 7,410 meters, it should be on every mountaineer’s list. However, despite being a neighbor of the King of the Mountains, it doesn’t receive as much acclaim as it deserves.”
Location:
“Look, you can see it from the K2 base camp, but it’s still 9 kilometers away. Skil Brum lies on the northwest of Broad Peak, the western side of the Godwin-Austen Glacier, and beyond the seracs of the upper Savoia Glacier. Another colossal gem, Muztagh Tower, is situated to its southwest, and Praqpa Kangri is to the south.
All these towering mountains add to the charm of Karakoram. K2 undoubtedly wears the crown, but these uncelebrated emeralds hold their own allure, too.” he said while giving a meaningful glance at me, as if explaining the significance of each mountain.
“Speaking of Skil Brum, it ranks as the 66th-highest mountain in the world. Nestled within the Baltoro Muztagh range, an enriched sub-range of the Karakoram, this peak requires an advance permit for climbers. No mountaineer can ascend without a Pakistani Army Liaison Officer accompanying them.”
First Ascent:
“Now, let’s talk about its first ascent, which holds a spotlight in the mountaineering world. In 1957, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller decided to up their game. Freshly after summiting Broad Peak, they set their eyes on Skil Brum. They did the flash first ascent that too in pure alpine style. Isn’t it great?
They started from Broad Peak’s base camp at 4,950 meters and traversed ten miles of the Godwin-Austen and Savoia glaciers in ten hours. Next, they ascended a snow slope on skis to establish their next camp. On June 19th when they conquered the summit via the southwest route in just twelve hours, descending the following morning on skis.
In a nutshell, they did the ascent of Skil Brum from base camp to base camp in just 53 hours! It’s worth noting that Skil Brum is no easy feat. With its considerable elevation, it poses significant technical challenges for climbers. Therefore, the extraordinary achievement of Schmuck and Wintersteller etched their names in the annals of mountaineering history!”
Now, this intriguing expedition piqued my interest too.
Name Origin:
“Do you want to know how the peak got its name? Let me tell you. Skil Brum was unnamed when Schmuck and Wintersteller first conquered it. Schmuck, the leader of the expedition, proposed to name the summit “Peak Dyhrenfurth” after GO Dyhrenfurth, the man providing key information to him for the first Austrian ascent of Broad Peak.
There were suggestions to name it “Peak Dyhrenfurth” or “Peak Austria.” However, a year later, the Government of Pakistan settled on the name “Skil Brum.”
First Glance At Skil Brum:
Within a few hours of trekking and hearing the compelling details, we didn’t realize covering up the route. Or maybe it was just me, too lost in the captivating narrative. When my gaze shifted from the rugged glacial terrain to the tantalizing views of Skil Brum, I was jaw-dropped!
The first glance of the glinting snow ravine peak completely took my breath away. I was taken aback by how enchanting the peak appeared up close. At that point, I was just too grateful not to miss this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to witness the underrated wonder.
The amphitheater of Skil Brum offered stunning views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers. Flabbergasted by the beauty, I took out my camera to capture the ethereal vistas, just when the guide came beside me and asked,
“So, how is it, Isabella?”
“Well, I must admit, there is no place in Karakoram that I can take lightly,” I replied, marveling at the stunning landscape.
“Told you, you won’t regret it. You know, my country, and especially this region, is filled with unexplored beauties. I believe one must make the best out of their time here and explore as much as they can if they get a chance to be here.” he grinned and strode ahead, his pride in the natural wonders of his homeland was evident in his smile.
Conclusion:
It’s true, the Karakoram range has been the best one so far for me. Ever since hearing Gramps’ tales of Arthur Gilkey and K2, I’ve been captivated by the allure of this majestic mountain range. But little did I know the live experience would surpass all the expectations.
No doubt, the Savage King (K2) tops the chart; Skil Brum was a revelation in its own right. I spent all my time immersing myself in the allure of the misprized gem. The remoteness and greatness of the place captured my heart, and I simply didn’t want to leave.
Our return journey retraced our steps, reliving the expedition from Goro II to Goro I, Urdukus, Paiyu, Joula, and Askole before driving back to Skardu. In Skardu, it was all about bidding goodbye to our tour friends, Neha, Amir, and everyone else. I was grateful for their camaraderie, which made this journey even more exhilarating for me. Lastly, I boarded my flight back to Italy and carried all the memories of Karakoram within me.
To all adventurers, I strongly encourage you to seize the opportunity to explore as many mountains as possible in the maestoso Karakoram range. And don’t forget to stretch ahead and witness this underrated wondrous neighbor of K2, Skil Brum!